Getting awkward at the PLANET ARIES POP-UP launch

Last night saw the launch of the PLANET ARIES POP-UP in London, a collaborative project from SLAM JAM and the pioneering duo behind UK brand ARIES. The Drop Date went down to check out the space and pick the brains of Aries founder Sofia Prantera for a little insight into streetwear’s resurgence, the need for physical stores in an online world, and collaborations with old friends.

The Planet Aries pop-up feels like it’s been a long time coming. Back in the ‘90s, Prantera and her business partner Fergus Purcell (better known to many as Fergadelic) spearheaded much of the ethos and aesthetic that have thrust UK fashion into the global spotlight in recent years. After studying fashion at Central St Martins, Prantera started working with what she describes as “a tight crew” at legendary London institution Slam City Skates. Together with Purcell, she helped launch the label Holmes which in turn morphed into Silas, an under-the-radar success story that went international with its off-kilter and very British approach to graphics, branding and apparel.

In subsequent years, streetwear became a dirty word; co-opted by the mass market and out of touch with its DIY roots, it was scorned by subcultures for being too mainstream and by high fashion for being too lowbrow. Fast forward to 2018, and things have come full circle as fashion clamours for a scrap of ‘street culture’. In a year that’s already seen Virgil Abloh snapped up by Louis Vuitton and IKEA release a skateboard, the high-low culture clash of Aries and its pop-up store couldn’t be more relevant.

Prantera describes Planet Aries as a necessary step forward for the brand. “It’s difficult to stand out online,” as she puts it – especially when it comes to a brand like Aries, whose referential graphics and steadfastly non-commercial approach are best showcased in the flesh, surrounded by the many like-minded labels for which the pioneering duo paved the way. Once the two-story Covent Garden location was found, it was a natural move to partner up with the likes of Palace and Life’s A Beach (both run by ex-Silas alumni) alongside Ashley Williams, Thames, Wayward and more. “I’ve always been surrounded by lots of designer friends”, says Prantera, “And we were always making plans. Once we found the place, we thought: f*ck it, let’s do something big.” It’s a family affair: even the wooden elements of the store’s interior – built by Prantera’s husband – are made from remnants of the old Palace ramp.

And so Planet Aries rears its collaborative head at exactly the right moment to remind us where it all came from in the first place – a physical oasis in a world where a digital blizzard of information has replaced subculture, context and meaning. Last night’s launch event was the perfect example of the store’s ability to bring together old and new, as UK industry veterans mingled with young skaters in the cobbled environs of Floral Street. And while Aries retains an old-school ethos and a soft spot for vintage references, its founders are happy to embrace the younger generation’s glitchy pick ’n’ mix approach to culture. Hence the store’s inter-generational audience, its esoteric product mix (skateboards don’t often sit next to straw sombreros) and the Blondey McCoy collage artwork juxtaposed with refined wooden fittings and industrial elements.

In a world where everything seems geared towards selling us things we don’t need, it’s refreshing to come across a project where having a good time genuinely seems more of a priority than selling bucketloads of product. “It’s much nicer to work with people you like,” explains Prantera. “It’s about being with people you feel a connection with.” And despite the success of Aries, she’s still aiming for creative expression over material success. “It’s not a commercial brand. It’s expensive.” She pauses. “It’s awkward.”

And long may that awkward moment last.

The PLANET ARIES POP-UP is open until 6 JUNE from 10.30AM – 6.30PM at 21 FLORAL STREET, LONDON WC2E 9DS, with exclusive products on offer along with the launch of the ultra-limited ARIES X NEW BALANCE 990V3 (take a closer look at the shoe in our photoshoot here). If you’re in London, we highly recommend a visit – and if you can’t make it down, hit the banner below to shop the latest Aries arrivals with Slam Jam Socialism instead.